By Hunter Fuentes and Jon Stordahl
This month brought welcome news to our city’s epicureans; a local establishment has been awarded a highly coveted Michelin star. Congratulations to the chef/owner of Rebel Omakase, Jason Nakasone. Laguna has been home to several noteworthy restaurants over the years. In the late 1980s, one of us (the older one, of course) had the opportunity to work at Five Feet Restaurant for the groundbreaking chef Michael Kang. In its heyday, Five Feet was packed every night and was a regular haunt for local celebrities. I remember working OJ Simpson’s 40th birthday party in 1987, but that’s a story for another day. Many talented chefs have honed their skills in Laguna, but the first star of the city’s culinary elite was an Italian immigrant named Hugo Aleidis of the Victor Hugo Inn.
Hugo Albert Aleidis was born in Rome in 1888. He left Italy for the United States in 1907 and lived for a short time in New York City and New Orleans before arriving in Los Angeles in 1911. Claiming training in Italy, France and Germany, he worked in LA’s thriving restaurant scene and quickly found his niche. People liked him and his continental vibe. In 1917, he opened his first restaurant on Olive Street in downtown LA, naming it “Victor Hugo’s.” He went on to open two other restaurants, one in Los Angeles, the other in Beverly Hills, each more opulent than the previous. Aleidis built a strong following among the silent film stars and celebrities of that era. His business ventures’ financial and emotional strain took their toll, and in 1937, he took a hiatus. It was short-lived. In 1938, he announced his intention to move to Laguna Beach and open Victor Hugo’s Inn.
Aleidis had established his reputation as a restauranteur who offered an upscale continental dining experience, but for his new coastal venture he envisioned a less formal ambience. He acquired a stunning property on Heisler Point at 361 Cliff Drive, next to the Art Museum. Controversy about development on the point contributed to H.G. Heisler’s resignation from the City Council. He selected Manfred DeAhna as his architect and E.F. Grandy as the contractor. DeAhna was asked to design a single-level, stucco and wood structure, with a tile roof and elements of French Provencal style. The resulting building had a sophisticated elegance as it hugged the coast, enveloped by formal gardens laid out by Francois Scotti, who had directed the landscaping at Riverside’s Mission Inn. The restaurant dining room could accommodate 110 guests; the banquet room an additional sixty. The new Victor Hugo’s Inn opened on April 28, 1939. The restaurant served 89,000 meals that first year, according to an April 30, 1940 South Coast News article. DeAhna was commissioned to do additions in both 1940 and 1941.
Aleidis enjoyed dropping French terminology onto his menu, but he clearly embraced the American palette. While he offered Potage Americaine and Poached Halibut au vin blanc, he also found room for Salisbury Steak with Mushroom Sauce, Spaghetti Victor Hugo, and the unlikely Enchiladas Mexicaine. He was a charismatic man who inspired loyalty in both customers and staff. Eleven employees followed him from his earlier ventures in Los Angeles, including his head chef, Ernesto Pinotti. Many of his LA patrons made frequent drives down to Laguna to enjoy both the food and their host. A Laguna local, Deane Day, recently reminded me that the 1942 Bette Davis’ film, “Now Voyager,” filmed a crucial scene on the patio of Victor Hugo’s. Who knows, perhaps that visit led to the actor’s later decision to settle in the town.
The Victor Hugo Inn brought destination dining to Laguna Beach. Hugo Aleidis remained at the helm until the late-1940s. The building was badly damaged in a fire on April 18, 1954. Aubrey St. Clair was commissioned to handle the post-conflagration restoration. Hugo Aleidis sold his remaining interest in the property in 1955. According to the U.S. Census, he and his wife settled in the town of Beaumont in Riverside County and lived the remainder of their lives as farmers. He died there in 1973. Fred Harvey Restaurants purchased the business in 1957 and continued to operate it under its original name. In November 1979, El Torito purchased the site and rebranded it as Las Brisas. A major remodeling transformed DeAhna’s French Provencal design into a vision of coastal Mexico.
In that April 1940 interview with the South Coast News, Aleidis explained the origin of his business moniker. He said that his name was often mispronounced and that ‘Victor Hugo,’ “… embodied a part of his own name and was well-known.” In the famous French author’s 1862 masterpiece, Les Miserables, he wrote, “A garden to walk in and immensity to dream in – what more could one ask? A few flowers at his feet and above him the stars.” That is exactly what Hugo Aleidis gave us.
Hunter is a Laguna Beach resident and founder of Historic Laguna (historiclaguna.com). Jon has lived in Laguna for over 20 years. He is a retired history teacher and member of the Laguna Beach Heritage Committee. You can reach Hunter and Jon at jon@historiclaguna.com and hunter@historiclaguna.com.
